Mowing

The most popular option is mowing, and for a good reason. Mowing is a great way to give your property the dream look, as overgrown grass is a bad thing to have at a holiday home. If grass is cut correctly, it encourages the grass to branch out and become denser, which turns thousands of individual grass plants into a tightly woven lawn. It sounds simple but there are more factors to it, like mowing height and frequency. Cutting a lawn too short stresses the lawn, discouraging good rooting and will help weeds and moss to thrive, also regularly serviced equipment is essential (sharp mowing blades) to give a good clean cut to the lawn.

We offer a weekly or bi-weekly mowing service to keep your lawn in best possible condition. Combine this with one of our treatment programmes and you will have the best looking lawn in your area.

Lawn Treatments

We utilize the same products used for professional lawns and sports grounds, which are unavailable to the general public. This enables us to give you the beautiful lawn you have always wanted. Training and qualifications (city and guilds level) is required by all of our operatives to administer our products. No lawn is the same so neither are our treatments, that’s why we assess every lawn and tailor a specific lawn care plan to suits its individual needs. we use combinations of a wide variety of lawn fertilisers and weed treatments which are applied with specially calibrated equipment to give the maximum effect.

The basic treatment is good if your lawn does not suffer from moss, if you require moss treatment you should be looking at the complete treatment.

The complete treatment is the same as the basic programme but it includes a moss treatment in autumn prior to scarification being carried out. This treatment is best if your lawn suffers from a lot of moss.

Scarifying

Scarifying is the process by which the `undergrowth` or thatch is removed. For a lawn, it can be a harsh process and initially will make your lawn look worse but ultimately will make it much healthier.  Thatch is mostly dead plant matter and actually prohibits healthy lawn growth by preventing nutrients and water reaching new grass shoots. A healthy lawn will have some thatch but not too much. The scarification process will also remove moss build up – though only temporary unless it has been chemically treated.  We can scarify your lawn in spring or early autumn after your spring/autumn lawn treatment that would have included a moss treatment. We do not recommend scarifying a lawn without this treatment as it helps the lawn recover after the scarification process, and also if moss is scarified without a moss treatment, it will only spread the moss spores around and make the problem worse.

Weed Control

Weeds and unwanted growth on hard surfaces i.e. around the edges of driveways, in between slabs in your garden or business property and in block paving can make the area unsightly, uneven or slippery when wet, giving a scruffy unkept look.  Often restricted in size due to the poor growing conditions, weeds are still capable of flowering or setting seed, they can also be very damaging too. Weeds on hard surfaces are usually common weeds from lawns or waste ground such as dandelion, annual meadow grass and creeping buttercup that have blown in as seeds. Most weeds will need all of their roots removing. Deep-rooted weeds such as dandelion and dock require the removal of their tap root which can be tricky. Just pulling the weed out is not enough as this often leaves behind the tap root which will start to grow back after a short period of time.

We also offer many more services, you can either look here or contact us.

All holiday homes require different care, and we can ensure that you are getting the right service for your needs at Grasshopper Garden Services.

Copper Tape

This is a common method to deter slugs, as the trail causes a reaction and will put them off of coming any closer. This is a good and harmless way to keep them away from your lawn or plants. Simply stick down as a border around plant pots or your lawn and it will act as an invisible wall for snails.

Beer Trap

Slugs love the scent of beer, which is why beer traps are a great way to get rid of them. Simply any cheap beer poured into a small container will lure them into climbing in and drowning. Place the trap near to a spot where you commonly see them hang out at, and check daily to see how effective it has been. Dispose of dead creatures in compost, or leave them out for the wildlife to eat.

If you do not have access to beer, or want to save money, you can mix yeast, flour, sugar and water together and they will like it just as much.

Crushed Eggshells

These can be used as a barrier as the sharp texture will draw snails away. Dry in the oven and crush in a blender, and place around what you want to protect, and slugs should avoid passing it. Make sure you prepare the shells properly, as egg residue could draw even worse pests, like rodents, to visit.

Hand picking

This is the most simple way to keep snails and slugs away, as moving them off of your lawn will slow them down. We recommend avoiding this if you can, as they will likely come back.

Luring Predators

Luring predators like birds can be effective, as slugs are prey and will get eaten. The best way is to offer them food in bird feeders (seeds, berries, worms), or you could plant things that birds are attracted to, especially berries. This is not the quickest way, but may pair well with beer traps.

Slug Pellets

If you are not having any luck, you can use slug pellets. They are the most effective, killing them quickly, but they are dangerous to wildlife and should only be used in a dedicated growing room where children and pets do not have access.

Fertilising

Now would be a perfect time to apply a granulated fertiliser, as it will supply the grass with important nutrients, supporting many things like strong root development. These slow releasing fertilisers provide consistent feeding over a long amount of time, making them an important thing for active lawn care and giving great help towards a bright lawn.

Seaweed

Seaweed is not a replacement for fertiliser, but it will assist soil structure for the best root development and enhance the intake of nutrients from the fertiliser. Instead of delivering its own nutrients, seaweed works by improving the absorption of elements already in the soil or from fertiliser. Improved intake will support stronger and healthier growth in your grass and will support better root development by improving the structure and biology of the soil you do not see.

Seaweed products, usually applied as liquid, can be used consistently across the year, ideally every 2 weeks, to assist the lawn. This will also treat the living foundation under the grass, assisting benefits of both treatments. This combination will help your lawn stand up to the stress of summer, resulting in a healthier and brighter lawn.

Watering

As the heat of summer comes in, you should also water your lawn properly. Watering doesn’t just keep it hydrated but also boosts the effectiveness of those treatments. Both need moisture to activate and soak in, so consistent and deep watering will help carry the nutrients to the roots where they will be properly absorbed.

Without water, fertiliser can sit on the surface and be weaker, and seaweed will not kick in properly. Watering early in the morning once or twice a week and giving a deep watering instead of a light spray is the most effective thing to do. You will be supporting both the grass and the treatments, making the most of your resources during this summer.

Scarifying Information

To know if you need to scarify, there are ways to figure that out, including if your garden has strong weed growth. The best time to scarify is March to September, and the daily temperature should be between 14 and 20 ° C, which is usually normal in spring and autumn. Scarifying should be avoided in summer, when the lawn is used and gets a lot of heat. You should also avoid winter.

In spring, the time between March and May is the best. If you want to use your lawn in summer, you should do maintenance in spring. as it means that your grass has a few weeks of rest after treatment. You should scarify as early as possible, and you should not wait too long. May is often very warm and dry, that is why additional irrigation is necessary so that the sward closes quickly. There are two ways for scarifying in spring, which will be listed here:

Start lawn care with scarifying before the lawn starts growing properly. After scarifying, fertilize the lawn and mow to normal height a week or two later.

Or you could start lawn care with fertilizing. Then mow your lawn to normal height. As soon as the second lawn mowing is due 2 weeks later, it is the right time to scarify.

Scarifying the lawn a second time a year should take place in autumn from September to October. The temperature should be warm, but no longer hot. The second pass with the scarifier removes moss, weeds and lawn felt, preparing the lawn for winter. You should choose the time of lawn care, so that the lawn still has time to recover before winter rest.

You should only scarify when the lawn is dry. If the soil is too wet, the scarifier might tear out healthy plants. Mow the lawn to a height of two centimeters just before scarifying, this is usually the lowest setting of the lawnmower. Before moving on the scarifier, you should remove larger stones from the lawn. Otherwise these could be thrown up by the scarifier and hit you, which is very dangerous.

Scarifying Right

First set the working depth correctly. The right depth for scarifying depends on the soil and the degree of matting of your lawn, which should be between 3-20mm. Then go lengthways across the surface, making a pattern. Make sure that you move the scarifier quickly and do not stand in one place for long, as it could damage the ground too much. When changing direction, push the bar down so that the blades lift, making it easier and better on the lawn

Scarifying Aftercare

If your scarifier does not pick up moss in a grass catcher, use a rake. The deeper you scarify, the more it takes from the ground and the more the collector has to be emptied. Then it is better to work without a grass catcher and then collect the waste with a rake. Sow bald spots directly with fresh lawn seeds, sprinkle lawns on heavy soil with a thin layer of construction sand to loosen up the soil and improve its balance.

First, the lawn could look worn, fertilization will help it to recover. The fertilizer can settle in the loose soil and does not blow away. In the next three weeks, you should regularly water the lawn so that it recovers and grows back. You should avoid touching the lawn after scarifying so it can quickly grow back into a bright lawn.

If you want a scarifying service, we can do it for you trouble-free at Grasshopper Garden Services. Read more about scarifying here

Soil Health

The foundation of any healthy lawn is good soil. Soil health plays a big role in the overall condition of your lawn, affecting nutrient availability, drainage, and root growth. If your soil is compacted, lacks essential nutrients, or is too acidic or alkaline, it can prevent your grass from thriving. A soil test will tell you the pH level and nutrient content, helping you understand what is needed. For example, if your soil is too acidic, you can add lime to raise the pH. If it’s too alkaline, sulfur can lower the pH. Additionally, applying matter or compost can improve soil, providing a better environment for grass roots.

Watering

Watering is another big part affecting the health of your lawn. Both overwatering and underwatering can result in an unhealthy lawn. Overwatering can cause root rot, create conditions for fungi and pests, and waste water. Underwatering, on the other hand, leads to drought stress, brown patches, and weak grass growth. Deep watering, less frequently, is often more effective than shallow, frequent watering. A good rule of thumb is to water the lawn deeply once or twice a week, ensuring that the grass receives at least 1 to 1.5 inches of water each time. A sprinkler system with a timer can help regulate watering schedules.

Grass Variety

Not all grass types are suited for every climate. Grass varieties each have different needs and thrive in different conditions. If your lawn has the wrong type of grass for your climate, it will likely struggle to grow properly, leading to patches of dead or weak grass. Cool-season grasses thrive in cooler climates, while warm-season grasses perform better in hotter regions. Choosing the right grass variety will give your lawn the best chance.

Lawn Mowing

Mowing may seem like a simple task, but it’s easy to make mistakes that harm your lawn. Cutting the grass too short, using dull mower blades, or mowing at irregular intervals can all contribute to a less-than-perfect lawn. When grass is cut too short, it can weaken, making it more exposed to drought, pests, and diseases. Keep your mower blades sharp, and adjust your mower to cut grass at the right height for your specific grass variety. Generally, cool-season grasses should be kept at 2.5 to 4 inches, while warm-season grasses can be cut shorter. Avoid cutting more than one-third of the grass height in a single mowing session to prevent stressing the grass. Additionally, vary your mowing pattern to prevent soil compaction and promote healthy growth.

Weed Infestations

Weeds are a common enemy of any lawn. Whether it’s dandelions, crabgrass, or clover, weeds compete with grass for nutrients, water, and sunlight. If left unchecked, weeds can quickly overtake your lawn, resulting in an uneven, patchy appearance. Use a combination of prevention and treatment strategies to manage weeds. Preventing weeds starts with proper lawn care, such as maintaining a thick, healthy lawn that crowds out weeds. For existing weeds, consider using targeted herbicides or natural weed control methods. Hand-pulling weeds can be effective for smaller infestations, while a pre-emergent herbicide can stop weeds from sprouting in the first place. Keep in mind that using herbicides improperly can harm your grass, so always follow instructions carefully.

Pests

Pests can cause significant damage to your lawn. Grubs, chinch bugs, and other insects can eat the roots of your grass, leaving behind unsightly patches or making the lawn feel spongy when walked on. Over time, pest infestations can cause your lawn to deteriorate rapidly.

Read more here

Lawn Maintenance

Regular lawn maintenance is key to keeping your lawn healthy. Neglecting basic care, like weeding, mowing, and watering, can lead to poor grass health. A lawn requires ongoing attention to ensure that it stays vibrant and free of issues.

Read more here

Conclusion

A perfect lawn requires effort and attention, and many things can impact its health and appearance. By understanding these factors and addressing them through proper lawn care techniques, you can improve your lawn’s appearance. While achieving a perfect lawn may take time, consistent care and a bit of patience will pay off.

Luckily, with the climate we have here in England, insect damage is usually limited to sporadic, occasional problems. Some of the damage symptoms that insects and pests can cause to the lawn are very similar to those caused by diseases, so it is very important to diagnose the problem correctly before treatment. The best and most simple method to determine the cause is careful observation. In most cases where the lawn has been damaged enough to be noticeable, the organism can be easily seen on or near the surface. We will go over a few types of pest and the symptoms, and how to control those problems.

The grubs of some insect species survive just under the surface of the leaves and feed on roots, stems and crowns of grass. Worst case, the grass attacked by these grubs can be extensive, causing the death of large areas of turf.

Leatherjackets are the grubs of the crane-fly (or known as long-legged spiders). They are perhaps the most common lawn pest.

Symptoms – The grey/brown larvae grow up to 5cm long, live in the soil below the surface and feed on grass roots, stems and sometimes leaves. Most damage occurs on young plants in spring, but they may also develop in autumn. The affected grass plants usually turn yellow, wilt and then die. High population in lawns cause yellow patches during dry weather and affected areas may also develop more damage from birds tearing the soil to catch the leatherjackets.

Chafer grubs, also known as white grubs, can live in the soil. Both larvae and adults can attack grass.

Symptoms – C-shaped, soft and white larvae up to 40mm long with a brown head and six legs on the upper part of the body, feed on the roots, stems and sometimes leaves of the grass. The grass may appear yellow or brown before wilting and dying. During dry weather, brown withered turf can be spotted and the grub can be found if the turf is lifted. The symptoms are similar to those found with leatherjackets.

Frit fly are not a common pest of turf grasses but it can become a problem. The frit fly larvae are 3-4mm long, yellow or brown in colour with black, curved mouth hooks.

Symptoms – The larvae are grubs that can affect the growth of the grass plant. Under severe attacks the plant will die. Where the lawn is regularly mown, attack will be limited because the larvae prefer grass plants that are developed fully.

As many of the insecticides used to control grub problems have been banned from use for being too polluting and dangerous, there is very little you can do to control insect grubs. It is advised that you contact your local garden center for advice on what is currently on the market and available to control the problems, or look online for results. We mainly recommend hiring a local professional to advise and assist with the problem.